From Old Hollywood to Old Vienna

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A gorgeous Viennese spring day.

A gorgeous Viennese spring day.

“Am I boring you?”

I was 22 years old in September of 1977. I had dreamed and worked and worked and dreamed of studying music in Vienna. At the time I played the French horn, which I retired in 1998 to devote myself to conducting. But for 25 years or more the horn was my voice, my love, my sound. And the person who had the greatest sound in the world was in Vienna, Roland Berger of the Vienna Philharmonic. All that money washing dishes in my parents’ restaurant was beginning to pay off.

However as I now look back, one man took me under his wing, guided me, encouraged me, talked to me, questioned me. And I know that I learned as much, if not more, from renowned Austrian painter Georg Eisler than any musical mentor I would encounter. His father, composer Hanns Eisler, was nominated for two Academy Awards in the 1940s. Somewhat more ominously, Hanns was the prime target of Richard Nixon and the House Un-American Activities Committee, known as HUAC.

“Am I boring you?”

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Sound Dreams in Los Angeles

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East meets West in Los Angeles.

East meets West in Los Angeles as violist Do Huong Tra My of Hanoi tries Cafecito Organico at the Hollywood Farmers Market.

David Letterman, the revered American comic who has been keeping us up late at night for over 30 years here in the United States, revealed the two components of a good joke. To be funny the joke has to be 1) Obvious and 2) Stupid. Say all the words right and you can cue laughter.

If you are already one of my 4500 blog readers in 80 countries, you know I don’t see my LA International New Music Festival as an independent endeavor. So many ideas go into artistic decisions that adopting a single viewpoint is at the least annoying and at the worst dishonest. My thoughts and plots for the 2015 Festival continue apace, but for this post I thought I’d create an exposition of idea and concept behind the next installment.

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Gamelans & Ganeshas in the Berkshires

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Longhua Temple in Shanghai.

Longhua Temple in Shanghai.

The pure Walden water is mingled with the sacred water of the Ganges.

I like surprises. The opening motto for this post is from Henry David Thoreau’s The Pond in Winter. Sorry, but none of us are as hip as we think we are. I keep urging people to get over themselves and not be indifferent to traditions. Beethoven and Emerson were big fans of the Bhagavad Gita long before the 60s and the Beat Generation.

I’ve spent a lot of time going in and out of Asia since 2002. Multiple trips to Japan, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Hong Kong, Laos, China and Taiwan, twelve if I’m bothering to count. I’m sure to be back as soon as possible to experience India, Indonesia, Bali, Singapore and Penang, Kuala Lumpur.

Jan and I’ve been hooked by the food and philosophy, the complicated history (I love a good story and just trying to sort out the Soong Sisters is a historical page turner), the music and the landscape, the medical ideas and body use disciplines of yoga and Thai massage, the poetry and the I-ching and Tao Te Ching, but most of all the people, which now means old friends.

People aren’t their governments and Planet Earth is full of wonderful humans. Language barriers? Here’s a tip – smiles don’t need translations or apps.

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The Old Inn on the Green: Colonial Cuisine in New England

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Twilight fog in New England.

Twilight fog in New England at The Old Inn on the Green in New Marlborough.

There is an unescapable magic in the New England countryside of the Berkshire Hills in Western Massachusetts. The legendary fall foliage, the evanescent green of spring, the fireflies of summer, the winter white snow fall.

And this post is a story for my many curious and interested readers in over 80 countries around the globe. America is a complicated country, with huge frustrations, a complicated historical legacy concocted from British, French and Spanish colonial interests, and often maddening contradictions. There’s nothing like a good meal and a good book to help you start to understand a people and their country.

Do yourself a favor and make a reservation at The Old Inn on the Green.

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A Berkshire Morning Walk to Lake Buel

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A path in the Berkshire woods near Lake Buel.

A path in the Berkshire woods near Lake Buel.

I awoke yesterday morning to the sound of soft rainfall on the leaves and trees. The birds were an amazingly diverse choir, tweeting and humming and cooing and singing me out of sleep into emerging daylight.

The Berkshire Hills in Massachusetts are a locus for my life. They provide a genuine home for American musicians at Tanglewood in Lenox, where in 1979 I met my wife Jan. Her mother was born in Pittsfield in 1928 and her grandparents are buried there. Her aunt and uncle still live in New Marlborough, her old Cousin Andrew is a farmer in Sandisfield and young Cousin Rebecca is getting married on Saturday in Great Barrington.

But as I heard the rain fall softly I remembered, with birds and rainfall my soundscape as I awoke, music by John Cage inspired by the old colonial composers and Henry David Thoreau.

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The Housatonic at Stockbridge

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The Housatonic at Stockbridge.

The Housatonic at Stockbridge.

Maybe I was fated to fall in love in the Berkshires…

Let me flashback to a hot summer afternoon on Hollywood Boulevard in 1968. The bookstores, record shops, head joints, Indian restaurants, foot traffic and motorcycle gangs of Hell’s Angels were prodigious. I’d been inspired hearing The Fourth of July on a CBS Young Persons concert with Leonard Bernstein. Who was this American composer, Charles Ives? Our “Emerson, Twain and Thoreau all rolled into one” as Bernstein had described him.

John Kirkpatrick had recorded the Concord Sonata and I had gobbled it up like a piece of pumpkin pie when I saw the record at an old Hollywood Boulevard legend, Phil Harris Records. No bar lines? No meter? Fists on the piano? Forget the Mahler revival underway, my passion revolved around this American composer from Danbury, Connecticut. Next door to Phil Harris Records was a legendary music shop, our Doblinger’s or Patelson’s, owned by John de Keyser. Oversized scores of Boulez’s Pli selon pli and Penderecki’s St. Luke Passion were in the window display enticing me to enter.

I looked in awe at an item on the shelf. There was the great white whale of American music, The Concord Sonata by Charles Ives.

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The Magical Central Coast Roads of California

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Vineyard Dr. in the Central Coast area of Paso Robles.

Vineyard Dr. in the Central Coast area of Paso Robles.

My last post ended in Los Alamos, enjoying the gregarious wines and conversations of Stephan Bedford of Bedford Winery. But the road beckons us forward.

As you proceed north on Highway 101 take a detour which took us far to long to discover. Exit at the charming city of Arroyo Grande, locate Orcutt Road and get ready for a trip in the Edna Valley. It might be a little slower, but after all California has to deliver on its stereotypical laid back image from time to time. You’ve entered San Luis Obispo County, SLO County, pun unavoidable…

Got vineyards?

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The Magical California Roads of Santa Barbara Wine Country

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Santa Barbara from Stearn's Wharf.

Santa Barbara from Stearn’s Wharf.

I’ve never met a big city that doesn’t have a great reason for being built. Though the old adage for success in business – “location, location, location” – always plays a role in any city’s importance, the urban density, its excitement and endless opportunity, are only one part of a larger picture.

Los Angeles has a big personality profile. And there are two LA’s. One is the City and the other is the County. The County is vast and makes everyone and everyplace for miles around lay claim to being LA. Los Angeles (the City) is Hollywood, no doubt about it, but it’s also the important port of San Pedro, it’s Abbot Kinney’s Venice Beach, it’s LAX Airport, the major hub between Asia and Latin America, it’s still Vin Scully of the LA Dodgers, it’s Disney Hall and the Hollywood Bowl.

But what is the most exciting part of living here is that when all of LA’s environs are  taken together (aka the County), you’re living in the second capitol cities of numerous countries around the globe. China, Taiwan, Thailand, Vietnam (though that is shifting to Louisiana a little), Cambodia, the Philippines, South Korea (Koreatown is in the middle of LA the City), Mexico, Guatemala, Brazil, El Salvador, Peru, Armenia, Lebanon, Iran (their nickname for LA is Tehrangeles) and I’ll bet there’s more.

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The Magical California Roads of Paso Robles Wine Country

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Wine country road in Paso Robles.

Wine country road in Paso Robles.

If you’ve been following my posts, you know that we’ve enjoyed a tremendous visit in Los Angeles from the Song Hong Ensemble of Hanoi. There’s nothing like seeing where you live through the eyes off friends who come to visit from a far off land.

Curiosity. It’s the one trait that makes a big difference to me and I wish more people understood its rewards. To eat something you’ve never tried. To try to learn a foreign language. To read a map of a strange place and know that in reading that map you are no longer lost, anywhere in the world. To cook a meal you’ve never thought possible. To listen to music out of your comfort zone.

And when in Paso Robles, to take the roads less traveled and find a good bottle of wine.

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Hanoi in Hollywood 4: Venice Beach

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Venice Beach Easter with Jan Karlin & Do Huong Tra My.

Venice Beach with Jan Karlin & Do Huong Tra My.

Timing is everything.

Mae West was right. You only live once, but if you do it right, once should be enough.

So after hard work, it’s time to enjoy life on a holiday. It was Easter Sunday in LA, and my friends from Hanoi had naturally not had a lot of time to see things. And it’s important to see what any city has that is only found in that city. One of those unique places for Los Angeles is what I call The End of the Western World.

The Venice Beach Walkway. In all its bizarre glory…….

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