• About Jeff von der Schmidt, the Hà Nội New Music Ensemble & LA International New Music Festival

Sound Travels with Jeff von der Schmidt

~ A blog about new music, travel and food

Sound Travels with Jeff von der Schmidt

Category Archives: Travel

A Malaysian Tropical Spice Garden Party for William Kraft & Friends

01 Thursday Sep 2016

Posted by Jeff von der Schmidt in Composers, Food, Georgetown, LA International New Music Festival, Malaysia, Penang Island, Travel, Uncategorized

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99 Ranch Market, Adelaide Winery, Asia, Beef rendang, Claiborne & Churchill Winery, Elliott Carter, Heidi Lesemann, Joan Huang, Los Angeles International New Music Festival, Malaysia, Rohana Turner, Tropical Spice Garden in Penang, William Kraft

A late summer lunch with Jan and friends Heidi Lesemann, Bill Kraft and Joan Huang.

A late summer beef rendang lunch with Jan, Heidi Lesemann, Bill Kraft and Joan Huang.

You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough. Mae West

If I had to define patriotism, it would be the tastes of your childhood. If I sample a mixture of brown sugar and butter, I can go all Proust on myself and remember my mother’s cookies. And if I had to define maturity, it would be the evolution of taste acquired over time and exposure to many different cuisines.

Which is another way to say that I didn’t grow up on the Malay specialty of beef rendang!

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Climbing the Batu Caves of Lord Murugan in Malaysia

25 Thursday Aug 2016

Posted by Jeff von der Schmidt in Batu Caves, Christopher Isherwood, Jacob Zeitlin, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Travel, Uncategorized

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Aldous Huxley, Asia, Batu Caves, Bhagavad Gita, Bodhi Tree, Christopher Isherwood, Jacob Zeitlin, Kuala Lumpur, Lord Hanuman, Lord Murugan, Mahabharata, Malaysia, Ramayana, Thaipusam Festival, West Hollywood

The imposing Lord Muruga at the Batu Caves.

The imposing Lord Murugan at the Batu Caves.

Cheyon, Senthil, Velan, Kumaran, Svaminatha, Saravanan, Arumugam or Shanumuga, Dandapani, Guruguha, Subrahmanya, Karitikeya, Skanda. Let’s just admit that Lord Murugan, the son of Shiva and the Commander of the Gods and Victory, goes by a lot of names throughout India, Tamilnadu, Kerala, Puducherry, Sri Lanka, Mauritius, Phillipines, Indonesia, Singapore, the surfing island of Réunion and Malaysia.

With the inspiration of businessman K. Thamboosamy Pillai, the Batu Caves outside of Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia became identified with Lord Murugan in the early 1890s. Since 1892 the Thaipusam Festival in early January/February is celebrated here with endless throngs of worshippers crowding the 272 steps up to the top of the caves. The imposing statue of Lord Murugan was erected in 2006 and is the largest Hindu shrine outside of India.

Climbing the 272 steps? Unforgettable.

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Finding the Best Asam Laksa in Georgetown on Penang Island in Malaysia

04 Thursday Aug 2016

Posted by Jeff von der Schmidt in Asam Laksa, Food, Georgetown, Malaysia, Penang Island, Singapore, Travel, Uncategorized

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328 Katong Laksa, Asam Laksa, Asia, Batu Ferringhi, Buddhism, Eastern & Oriental Hotel, Georgetown, India, Jalan Penang Road, Jooi Hooi Cafe, Joseph Conrad, Kedai Kopi Sin Hwa Restaurant, Malaysia, Penang Island, Seven Terraces, Singapore, Somerset Maugham, True Blue Cuisine, Vasco da Gama

A sunset over the Andaman Sea on Penang Island in Malaysia.

A sunset over the Andaman Sea on Penang Island in Malaysia.

Perhaps all of our lives changed 518 long and almost forgotten years ago.

On May 20, 1498, in the waning months of the 15th century, Vasco da Gama became the first European to set foot in India. The world would never be the same again. Food would irrevocably never be the same again. And as if ordered by fate, da Gama would die in Portuguese India’s Cochin on Christmas Eve, 1524. His death, 26 years after his first landing in India, still resonates in the 21st century. The geography of the Portuguese explorer’s passing reminds us that, like us, he would not be able to physically extricate himself from having made contact with the East.

In a global world that’s here to stay, we are all still trying to understand each other.

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And The River Sings of Eternity: From Huế to Paris for Tôn Thất Tiết

30 Thursday Jun 2016

Posted by Jeff von der Schmidt in Composers, Contemporary Music, Hanoi New Music Ensemble, LA International New Music Festival, Music, Paris, Travel, Uncategorized, Vietnam

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Andre Jolivet, Anthony Bourdain, Asia, Buddhism, Dam Quang MInh, Dong Kinh Co Nhạc, Hanoi New Music Ensemble, Kent Nagano, Los Angeles International New Music Festival, Nguyen Thien Dao, Olivier Messiaen, Thich Nhat Hanh, Ton That Tiet, Vietnam, Vivan Diep, Vu Nhat Tan

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Sunset in Paris on the Seine from the Pont des Arts.

My friend Tôn Thất Tiết, who I would describe as a hybrid Vietnamese French composer who is fundamentally Vietnamese, writes the most patient music I’ve ever encountered. Poised from years of Buddhist thought and traditions, his command of stillness inspires me. And like the metaphor of water he often invokes, his music conceals endless energy underneath a calm surface.

Tiết was born in Huế, Việt Nam in 1933, went to Paris in 1958, studied with Messiaen’s friend André Jolivet and became a French citizen in 1971. In 1993 he founded the France-Việt Nam Music Association to promote the development of traditional music in Việt Nam.

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Permanent Residents of Paris and A Homage to Nguyễn Thiện Đạo

27 Monday Jun 2016

Posted by Jeff von der Schmidt in Composers, Contemporary Music, Food, Hanoi, Hanoi New Music Ensemble, LA International New Music Festival, Paris, Travel, Uncategorized, Vietnam

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Cafe Louise, George Bizet, Hanoi New Music Ensemble, Hector Berlioz, LA International New Music Festival, Le sacre du printemps, Los Angeles Philharmonic, Montmartre, Montmartre Cemetery, Nguyen Thien Dao, Pere Lachaise Cemetery, Romeo & Juliet, St. Germain, Theatre Des Champs Elysses, Ton That Tiet

The Theatre de Champs Elysses which hosted the riotous premiere of Stravinsky's Rite of Spring.

The Théâtre des Champs Élysées in Paris, home to the riotous premiere of Stravinsky’s Le sacre du printemps.

Paris seems much larger than it really is because of the infinite number of mirrors that duplicate its true space. Carlos Fuentes Terra Nostra

Mirrors and circles come to my mind when I think of my love for Paris. Reflections of the city are found all over the world and, like the circular arrangement of its arrondissements, Paris always returns. Whoever said that all roads lead to Rome must have known that Paris wouldn’t need any help.

My position as artistic advisor to the Hà Nội New Music Ensemble gave me the opportunity to return to Paris in May. The purpose of the trip was to lay the foundation for long term French alliances for the new music wave I’m leading out of Việt Nam. As you’ll see in the next few years, the trip was a big success, and I’ll be posting more about various aspects of these meetings this summer.

But my wife Jan and I also needed to pay an important visit to an iconic Paris location that we’d never managed to find time to visit on other trips. Quarreling with fate is never productive. And when dealing with Việt Nam, Paris is never far away.

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French Connections and A Favorite Paris Restaurant of Pierre Boulez

23 Thursday Jun 2016

Posted by Jeff von der Schmidt in Contemporary Music, Food, Hanoi, Hanoi New Music Ensemble, Kent Nagano, Kyoto, LA International New Music Festival, Music, Paris, Travel, Uncategorized, Vietnam

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Ambassade d'Auvergne, Gilbert Nouno, Hanoi New Music Ensemble, Kent Nagano, LA International New Music Festival, Le Grand Comptoirs d'Anvers, Mari Kodama, Momo Kodama, Montmartre, Nguyen Thien Dao, Olivier Messiaen, Pierre Boulez, Restaurant Nansouty, Rue du Buci, Ton That Tiet, Vietnam

A glass of Lillet on Rue du Buci in St. Germain.

A glass of Lillet on Rue du Buci in St. Germain.

Paris is always a good idea. Audrey Hepburn

If there was an Academy Award for the most influential city in the world, Paris would probably win hands down. It’s certainly played a leading role in the world of music, art, literature, cuisine, fashion, history, colonialism, architecture, poetry, sculpture, science, film, romance, photography, you name it and Paris has had a starring part.

My wife Jan and I went to Paris in May to create French connections for the Hanoi New Music Ensemble and the Los Angeles International New Music Festival. It’s not coincidental but my next concert in October is hosted by the Alliance Française in Hanoi. We realized that as Americans in Paris we’d be able to build bridges for the French music community back to their former colony and formidable enemy in Southeast Asia.

I like a good story and this is one of the best!

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Love & Food in the Time of Cartagena

16 Saturday Apr 2016

Posted by Jeff von der Schmidt in Cartagena, Colombia, Food, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, LA International New Music Festival, Travel, Uncategorized

≈ 1 Comment

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Aguardiente, Caribbean Sea, Carlos Fuentes, Cartagena, Colombia, El Boliche, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, James Joyce, John Cage, KGB Coffee, La Cevicheria, LA International New Music Festival, La Mulatta, Love and Other Demons, Love in the Time of Cholera, Milagros Dulces, Plaza Simon Bolivar

 

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A lavender door in Cartagena, a UNESCO World Heritage City.

“The very life of the colonial city was an illusion of memory.” Gabriel García Márquez Love in the Time of Cholera.

My first impression of Cartagena de Indias was of its doors. Some were closed, others open, but they were all beautiful, redolent of a deceased Spanish power that was ultimately unable to control the collision of races and cultures populating its New World and that still search for ways to share life together. In Cartagena, Beethoven’s Fate slams on doors with weighty brass knockers, ancient Janus opens both ways, while Márquez’s dogmatic Bishop in Love and Other Demons conducts his exorcisms with the eternal pounding of sinister fear.

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A California Wine Drive on Hwy. 46 & Foxen Canyon Road

09 Saturday Apr 2016

Posted by Jeff von der Schmidt in California wine, Central Coast of California, Food, Hanoi New Music Ensemble, Kent Nagano, LA International New Music Festival, Travel, Uncategorized

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California, Cambria, Clarissa Nagy, Foxen Canyon Road, Foxen Winery, Hanoi New Music Ensemble, Highway 46, Jerzy Grotowski, Kent Nagano, LA International New Music Festival, Los Olivos, Montreal Symphony, Morro Bay, Paso Robles, Riverbench Winery, Santa Barbara, Santa Maria Valley, Song Hong Ensemble of Hanoi

California spring scene in the Cetnral Coast wine country.

California spring scene in the Central Coast Wine Country.

I am grateful for a growing readership to my blog posts from around the world, which is approaching 150 countries and 14,000 readers. My blog is becoming a resource for many of you, for its new music reports, food ideas and travel, with almost every post being called up each month for reference. Thanks for reading!

Balancing the primary colors of Latin America, the endless pastels of Asia and the vintage black and white of Europe and the United States for our next Los Angeles International New Music Festival, my wife Jan and I are grounded when we are at home in California, a place that allows us to blend all of our loves from around the world.

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Los Angeles International New Music Festival Plans: More from Bogotá

31 Thursday Mar 2016

Posted by Jeff von der Schmidt in Bogota, Colombia, Composers, Contemporary Music, Food, LA International New Music Festival, Los Angeles, Mexico, Southwest Chamber Music, Tambuco Percussion Ensemble, Travel, Uncategorized

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Alberto Ginastera, Beatriz Elena Martinez, Bogota, Colombia, El Candelario Restaurant, Ensamble CG, Esa-Pekka Salonen, Gustavo Dudamel, La Candelaria, LA International New Music Festival, Latin America, Martin Perlich, Ricardo Rozental, Rodolfo Acosta, Simon Bolivar, Southwest Chamber Music, Tambuco Percussion Ensemble, Usaquen, Vanessa Villages

The Santa Clara Convent in Bogota's La Candelaria.

The Santa Clara Convent in Bogotá’s La Candelaria District.

My last post contained a vibrant dose of Colombian energy, demonstrated by the opening citywide parade in Bogotá announcing the XV Iberoamerican Festival. As I’m beginning to process the impact visiting Colombia is exerting on my imagination (which kicked into high gear yesterday as we finally saw Ciro Guerra’s extraordinary Academy Award nominated film Embrace the Serpent) I’m reminded of one of the first conversations we had in Bogotá.

“Let me try to explain the situation of identity in Colombia for you,” said our new friend composer Rodolfo Acosta, the protagonist of contemporary music in Bogotá.

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Los Angeles International New Music Festival Plans: Bogotá Meetings

23 Wednesday Mar 2016

Posted by Jeff von der Schmidt in Bogota, Cartagena, Colombia, Composers, Contemporary Music, Food, Gabriela Ortiz, LA International New Music Festival, Tambuco Percussion Ensemble, Travel, Uncategorized

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Battle of Boyaca, Bogota, Cartagena, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Gabriela Ortiz, Gaston Alzate, La Canedlaria, LA International New Music Festival, La Puerta Falsa, Leopoldo Novoa, Paola Marin, Plaza Simon Bolivar, Ricardo Gallardo, Ricardo Rozental, Rodolfo Acosta, Simon Bolivar, Southwest Chamber Music, Tambuco Percussion Ensemble, XV Iberoamerican Festival

Morning light on Santa Fe de Bogota's cathedral.

Morning light on Bogotá’s cathedral in Plaza Bolívar.

I’ve just returned from my first trip to Colombia, where Jan and I visited the cities of Cartagena and Bogotá for a series of meetings for the next Los Angeles International New Music Festival. We decided on going to our American neighbor for two reasons. One was the encouragement of Tambuco’s director, Ricardo Gallardo, who has been helping us get a handle on the new music and cultural scene of Latin America and urged us to begin with Colombia.

The other reason was our hunch that the achievement of Gabriel García Márquez was not a fluke. Behind such impressively great literature had to be a deep well of culture.

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